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Special inspector Mike Hess blowing cement dust from the hole that was just drilled to install #4 rebar. You can see the dust in the air, the holes are then cleaned again with a round brush and blown clean again prior to placing epoxy and rebar.

Special inspector Mike Hess blowing cement dust from the hole that was just drilled to install #4 rebar. You can see the dust in the air, the holes are then cleaned again with a round brush and blown clean again prior to placing epoxy and rebar.

Don and Freddy placing epoxy into the holes after they had been cleaned. Freddy is following Don and placing the rebar's into wet epoxy, the rebar's are turned slowly and pushed down slowly until they bottom out in this case approximately 4.5 inches deep, the bars are turned counter clockwise.

Don and Freddy placing epoxy into the holes after they had been cleaned. Freddy is following Don and placing the rebar's into wet epoxy, the rebar's are turned slowly and pushed down slowly until they bottom out in this case approximately 4.5 inches deep, the bars are turned counter clockwise.

Two # 4's rebar's are side by side, all rebar placement is usually spelled out by the engineer on each project.

Two # 4's rebar's are side by side, all rebar placement is usually spelled out by the engineer on each project.

Julio placing rebar into freshly poured concrete, Julio has a pre-made template, you can see the two notches cut into the template, one for the outside bar and one for the inside bar, there is a cleat or stop on the bottom which fits against the form so each rebar is exactly the same distance from the edge and help line up the panels.

Julio placing rebar into freshly poured concrete, Julio has a pre-made template, you can see the two notches cut into the template, one for the outside bar and one for the inside bar, there is a cleat or stop on the bottom which fits against the form so each rebar is exactly the same distance from the edge and help line up the panels.

In this photo you can see the edge of the cleat being pushed against the form and this allows the rebar to fit between the foam and wire mesh. I usually crowd the foam side and this helps the Tridipanels to be installed quickly and in a straight line, I highly recommend this method.

In this photo you can see the edge of the cleat being pushed against the form and this allows the rebar to fit between the foam and wire mesh. I usually crowd the foam side and this helps the Tridipanels to be installed quickly and in a straight line, I highly recommend this method.

Julio fastening a surround for the finished door jam to be placed into, he is fasting a metal clip to the bottom of the jam, the clip is then shot into the slab with a low V power gun, a spreader plate is placed across the base so the temp jam can't move.

Julio fastening a surround for the finished door jam to be placed into, he is fasting a metal clip to the bottom of the jam, the clip is then shot into the slab with a low V power gun, a spreader plate is placed across the base so the temp jam can't move.

The black line in front of the temporary jam is the finished cement, this jam is set exactly on this finish line, the lines are sprayed with clear lacquered paint and used as a reference, you can see the metal clip and orange plastic around he head of the concrete pin behind the rebar's, also the black line is for the finish cement, the red is the line for the wire mesh and panels to set on.

The black line in front of the temporary jam is the finished cement, this jam is set exactly on this finish line, the lines are sprayed with clear lacquered paint and used as a reference, you can see the metal clip and orange plastic around he head of the concrete pin behind the rebar's, also the black line is for the finish cement, the red is the line for the wire mesh and panels to set on.

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